Reflections on a Day of Fasting
The fasting
season began this week, just in time. My
inner energy on low, this cycle of 19 days will help me recharge it.
Yesterday
Roshan and I accompanied a friend for a drive up near the summit of Mauna Kea
(13,796 ft.) to watch the sunset, have prayers and break the fast
together. As we ascended, we drove in
rain and a dismal cloud cover, but at around 7,000 feet we suddenly rose above
the clouds, which spread out like a fluffy tablecloth across the Valley
extending to the other high peak, Mauna Loa at 13,677 ft. and behind us far out
over the Ocean beyond Hilo. Gnarled
trees spotted the pasture-slopes of Mauna Kea where a few obscure cows fed,
content with their lonely dining on the green landscape. The sparse trees with their bent and twisted
limbs looked like figure skaters frozen on one foot; or like old, hunchbacked
souls doing Tai chi. We were passing
through the landscape of the strange and eerie, where ghost-like fingers of the
tops of clouds rested between the stubby, stoic trees.
At 9,000
feet we passed the visitor center and plodded up the steep,
supposed-to-be-4-wheel-drive-only road to maybe 11,000 feet, where we pulled
onto a ledge that gave us a panorama of the sun's rays streaking across the top
of the world. The temperature had
dropped from the mid-70's in Hilo to cold at the heights. Once parked the three of us put on sweaters
and coats before stepping out into the crisp, thin air to watch the last flares
of sunlight give way to the fast-growing shadows weaving their way up the
mountainsides, ‘til just enough day light remained to read from our prayer
books... "I beseech Thee by this Revelation whereby darkness hath been
turned into light..."
As night
settled across the Pacific, a nippy wind stirred about us, sending us back into
the car for warmth and a dinner of Subway sandwiches, fried potatoes (which we
ate with chopsticks), homemade cookies and plenty of water.
Descending
to the visitor center, we joined a small group of tourists who had gathered to
watch the vivid night sky through a telescope. Tonight, Saturn and Venus took
the main stage. Being able to see the
rings of Saturn through a telescope amazed me, but the frosty air forced me
inside the visitor center for hot chocolate mixed with coffee crystals, as I
waited for the cold numbness to leave my hands.
Such centers of learning pour out scientific knowledge in large
quantities, too much to remember in one setting; the videos, display panels and
computer terminals together become a bombardment. I did learn that an explorer named Vancouver
introduced mountain goats to Hawaii in the late 1780's, animals that quickly
destroyed much of the natural plant life on the slopes of Mauna Kea. I thought to myself, "What was the guy
thinking? And to think that a whole metropolitan city in Canada has been named
after him!"
Having our
fill of stars, hot chocolate and cold air, we left the visitor center as a
ridge of clouds, like an invading battalion of infantrymen, moved in, gradually
blocking out more and more of the 100 billion stars of the Milky way from our
sight as well as the entire Andromeda galaxy (with an estimated 200 billion
stars), which before being hidden by the dark invaders had been a fuzzy smudge
of light below two stars on the lower eastern edge of night.
During the 45-minute
descent back to Hilo in clouds and rain, we spoke of the need for a language
that expressed the spiritual and abstract wonders of experience: We say "Wonderful", but the word
doesn't say enough. All of our
superlatives fail to convey more than a nebulous sense of awe, a vague
description of the mystical feeling. Our
friend who drove us up said that the "Quietness" that he felt close
to the summit stays in his mind. We had
been sitting on top of the world.
One of the
recordings, "Changeless," which features improvised pieces from live
concerts with Gary Peacock on bass and Jack DeJohnette on drums, is almost
other worldly, like being on top of Mauna Kea at sunset.
I am there
now.
March 5, 1999
Hilo, Hawai'i
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